How to Patch Small Holes in Drywall

Most wall damage is a one-afternoon fix. The secret is thin coats, patience between them and a little primer before you paint.

A doorknob that swings too far, a shelf that comes down, years of picture hooks: drywall takes a lot of small knocks. The good news is that most of the damage is easy to fix with a few inexpensive tools, and a careful repair can disappear completely once it’s painted.

What you’ll need

• A 2- to 3-inch putty knife, plus a 6-inch drywall knife for anything bigger than a nail hole
• Lightweight spackle for small holes and dents
• Premixed joint compound for larger patches
• Self-adhesive fiberglass mesh patches for holes up to a few inches across
• A fine-grit sanding sponge or 120- to 220-grit sandpaper
• A utility knife, a damp cloth and a drop cloth
• Primer and paint that matches the wall

Before you start

Look at what’s behind the damage before you cut anything away. Wires and pipes often run straight up and down from outlets, switches and fixtures, so keep your utility knife shallow and avoid cutting near them. If you need to work right next to an outlet or switch, turn off the circuit at the breaker first.

Nail holes and small dents

1. Clean up the edges. Push in any raised paper or crumbs of gypsum with the handle of your putty knife, or trim them off with a utility knife.
2. Fill. Load a small amount of spackle on the putty knife and press it into the hole, then draw the blade across the wall at a low angle to scrape off the excess.
3. Let it dry. Spackle often shrinks a little, so a deep dent may need a second thin coat.
4. Sand lightly. A few passes with a fine sanding sponge is enough. The patch should feel flush when you run your fingertips over it.

For a row of old picture-hook holes, it’s faster to fill them all at once, then sand and prime the whole group together.

Holes up to about 4 inches

Doorknob dents and holes from wall anchors are where mesh patches earn their keep.

1. Trim the hole. Cut away loose paper and broken gypsum so the edges are firm. Sand down any torn paper that sticks up around the hole.
2. Apply the patch. Center a self-adhesive mesh patch over the hole and press it flat. Choose one that overlaps solid wall by at least an inch on every side, and check the size range on the package.
3. First coat. Spread a thin layer of joint compound over the patch with the 6-inch knife, extending a couple of inches past its edges. Don’t try to fill everything in one go; thick coats crack and take a long time to dry.
4. Second and third coats. When the first coat is dry, scrape off any ridges, then apply a slightly wider coat. Feather the edges by pressing harder on the outer side of the blade so the compound tapers to nothing. A third thin coat usually hides the mesh completely.
5. Sand smooth. Sand gently, wipe away the dust with a barely damp cloth and check your work.

Larger holes

Holes bigger than a mesh patch need a new piece of drywall. The usual method is to cut the damage back to a neat square, screw wood strips inside the opening as backing, screw in a piece of drywall cut to fit, then tape the seams and finish them with several coats of joint compound.

It’s a manageable project, but it takes more time and skill than a small patch. If the hole is near an outlet, sits over a stud or plumbing, or you’d rather not cut into the wall, a handyman or drywall contractor can do it quickly.

Sanding, priming and painting

Fresh spackle and joint compound absorb paint differently from the painted wall around them. If you paint straight over a patch, it can show up as a dull or shiny spot, often called flashing. To avoid that:

• Remove all the sanding dust first.
• Prime the patch and a little of the surrounding wall.
• Paint with the same paint and sheen as the rest of the wall. Our guide to choosing a paint sheen explains why sheen matters so much for touch-ups.

If the repair still stands out, repaint the whole wall from one corner to the next. A full wall hides small differences in color and texture far better than a square of new paint.

Quick checklist

• Did you check for wires and pipes before cutting?
• Is each coat thin and fully dry before the next one?
• Does the patch feel flush when you run your hand over it?
• Did you prime before painting?

Work through those four questions and most patches will be invisible from across the room.

Common questions

Should I use spackle or joint compound?

Lightweight spackle is easiest for nail holes and small dents because it dries quickly and shrinks very little. Joint compound spreads more easily over wider areas, so it’s the usual choice for mesh patches and larger repairs.

How long should I wait between coats?

Follow the drying time on the container. Thin coats of lightweight spackle can be ready to sand fairly quickly, while joint compound often needs several hours or overnight, especially in a cool or humid room.

Why does my patch still show after painting?

Usually the patch wasn’t primed, wasn’t feathered out wide enough, or the touch-up paint has a different sheen from the rest of the wall. Prime the repair, and if a touch-up still stands out, repaint the wall from corner to corner.

When should I call a professional?

Get help for large holes, drywall that is soft, stained or sagging from water, cracks that keep coming back, and damage near electrical boxes or plumbing. Recurring cracks and water stains can point to a problem behind the wall.

This guide is general information, not professional advice. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and your local building codes, and hire a licensed professional for electrical, gas, structural or roofing work.