How to Paint a Room: Prep, Cut In and Roll

Good results come from the dull parts: clearing the room, repairing the walls and protecting the floor. The painting itself goes quickly.

Painting a room is one of the most satisfying DIY projects: a weekend’s work changes the whole feel of a space. It’s also forgiving, as long as you take the preparation seriously. Here’s how to go from bare walls to a clean, even finish.

Shopping list

• Paint, enough for two coats, plus primer if your walls need it
• A 2- to 2½-inch angled brush for cutting in
• A roller frame and covers; shorter naps suit smooth walls, longer naps suit textured ones
• An extension pole, a paint tray and tray liners
• Canvas or plastic drop cloths and painter’s tape
• Spackle, a putty knife and a fine sanding sponge for repairs
• A screwdriver for switch plates and outlet covers
• A sturdy stepladder (see our ladder safety guide)

Not sure which finish to buy? Our guide to paint sheens walks through flat, eggshell, satin and gloss room by room.

Check for lead paint first in older homes

If your home was built before 1978, the paint you’re about to cover may contain lead. Painting over it isn’t the problem. The risk comes from sanding, scraping or cutting into it, which can release lead dust that’s especially harmful to children.

EPA’s advice for do-it-yourselfers:

• Homes built before 1978 may have lead-based paint. If you don’t know when your home was built, it’s safest to assume the work area has it.
• EPA recommends hiring a certified lead inspector or risk assessor to check the surfaces you plan to work on. You can also hire a contractor who is certified in lead-safe work practices.
• If you do the work yourself, contain the area with plastic sheeting, turn off forced-air heating and cooling, and cover the vents.
• Wear a disposable N-100 respirator and protective clothing, and keep children and pets out of the room.
• Mist surfaces with water before sanding or scraping, use power tools only with HEPA vacuum attachments, and clean up every day with a HEPA vacuum and wet cloths.

Prepare the room

1. Clear the space. Move furniture out, or push it to the middle of the room and cover it.
2. Remove hardware. Take off switch plates, outlet covers, curtain rods and picture hooks. Keep the screws in a labeled bag.
3. Repair the walls. Fill holes and dents, sand them smooth and spot-prime them. Our guide to patching drywall covers small and larger repairs.
4. Clean. Dust the walls and wash greasy areas, such as around kitchen switches, with a mild detergent solution. Rinse and let them dry.
5. Protect. Lay drop cloths and tape off trim, ceilings and anything else you don’t want to paint.

Cut in the edges

Cutting in means painting a band a few inches wide along ceilings, corners, trim and around outlets with a brush, where a roller can’t reach neatly.

Dip only the first third of the bristles, tap off the excess and draw a steady line, letting the angled tip ride just off the edge. Cut in one wall at a time so the brushed band is still wet when you roll next to it. That helps the brushed and rolled areas blend.

Roll the walls

1. Load the roller evenly in the tray, rolling off the excess so it doesn’t drip.
2. Start a few inches from the cut-in band and roll a large “W” or “M” shape about 3 feet wide.
3. Fill in the shape without lifting the roller, then finish with light, straight passes from top to bottom.
4. Move on to the next section, overlapping into the wet paint you just applied.

The second coat and cleanup

Wait for the recoat time on the label, then repeat the cutting in and rolling. A second coat evens out the color and sheen and usually hides small misses.

When you’re done:

• Pull off painter’s tape at a low angle. If paint has bridged onto the tape, score along the edge with a utility knife first.
• Clean water-based paint from brushes and rollers with soap and water; follow the label for oil-based products.
• Seal leftover paint tightly and label it with the room name for touch-ups. Check your local rules before throwing away paint, since disposal requirements vary.

Before you put the furniture back

Walk the room with good light from a window or a work lamp. Touch up thin spots and drips, put the switch plates back on and let the paint harden before hanging anything heavy. When you’re ready, our guide to hanging pictures and mirrors will help you avoid putting new holes in the wrong place.

Common questions

How much paint do I need?

Multiply the width and height of each wall, add them up, and subtract large windows and doors. Compare the total with the coverage on the can, plan for two coats and buy a little extra for touch-ups.

Do I always need primer?

Not always. Prime bare drywall, patched spots, stains, glossy surfaces and big color changes. Many paints are sold as paint-and-primer products, but spot-priming repairs still helps them blend in.

Should I paint the ceiling or the walls first?

Ceiling first, then walls, then trim and doors. Working from the top down means drips land on surfaces you haven’t painted yet.

How soon can I move the furniture back?

Paint can feel dry within hours but takes longer to fully harden. Check the label for recoat and cure guidance, and be gentle with fresh walls for the first couple of weeks.

This guide is general information, not professional advice. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and your local building codes, and hire a licensed professional for electrical, gas, structural or roofing work.